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Best Tourist Places in South India to visit in 2020
Sunday, 29 December 2019
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| Best Tourist Places in South India |
It’s not
possible to see everything South India has to offer in one trip, and we
don’t suggest you try. What follows is a selective taste of the region’s highlights:
outstanding temples, the best beaches, spectacular festivals and unforgettable
journeys.
Best Tourist Places in South India to Visit in 2020
1. Varkala
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| Varkala - South India Best Tourist Place |
This pleasantly low-key Keralan
resort boasts sheer red cliffs, amazing sea views and a legion of Ayurvedic
masseurs.
Varkala
Devout Hindus have for hundreds,
and possibly thousands, of years travelled to Varkala, 54 km north up the coast
from Thiruvananthapuram, to scatter ashes of recently deceased relatives on Papanasam beach. The beach, 4 km from Varkala town
itself, is dramatically set against a backdrop of superb, burnt clay-coloured
cliffs, which, coupled with comparatively low-key development, makes this a
more appealing place to spend a beach holiday than Kovalam.
Tightly crammed along the rim of
crumbling North Cliff, its row of restaurants and small hotels stare out across
a vast sweep of ocean – a view that can seem almost transcendental after
sunset, when a myriad tiny fishing boats light up their lanterns.
Papanasam beach
Known in Malayalam as Papa Nashini
(“sin destroyer”), Varkala’s beautiful white-sand Papanasam beach (also known just as Varkala beach) has long been associated with ancestor worship. Devotees come
here after praying at the ancient Janardhana Swamy Temple on the hill to the
south, then perform mortuary rituals on the beach, directed by specialist
pujaris (priests). The best time to watch the rites is in the early morning, just after sunrise – though out of respect, it’s best to keep
your camera in your bag.
Western sun-worshippers keep to
the northern end of the bay, where whistle happy lifeguards ensure the safety of
swimmers by enforcing the no-swim
zones beyond the flags: the undercurrent is often strong, claiming lives every
year. Dolphins are often seen swimming
quite close to the coast, and, if you’re lucky, you may be able to swim with them
by arranging a ride with a fishing boat. Sea otters can also occasionally be
spotted playing on the cliffs by the sea.
North Cliff
Few of Varkala’s Hindu pilgrims
make it as far as the North Cliff area, the focus of a
well-established tourist scene where bamboo and palm-thatch cafés, restaurants
and souvenir shops jostle for space close to the edge of the mighty escarpment
that plunges vertically to the beach below. Several steep flights of steps cut
into the rock provide shortcuts from the sand, or you can also get here via the
gentler path that starts from the beachfront.
South Cliff
Dotted with mid-range hotels and
guesthouses, the clifftop area running south of the main beachfront – known locally
as South Cliff – is a much quieter neighbourhood
of leafy lanes and large residential houses – a legacy of the lingering
presence of numerous clean-living brahmin families. The beach below the cliff,
reached via rock-cut steps from several of the hotels, largely disappears at
low tide, but offers a blissfully secluded spot to swim when the water recedes,
though you should watch out for the sharp laterite boulders lurking in the
surf.
Janardhana Swamy Temple
Varkala’s ancient Janardhana Swamy Temple is reached by heading up the lane
that climbs steeply south from the beachfront area. Non-Hindus are not permitted to enter the inner sanctum of the shrine, but
you can peep over the perimeter walls from the encircling path – a pleasant
stroll in the morning, when the temple elephant is led around the lanes on her
exercise walk.
Enshrining a form of Vishnu, the
temple is adorned with brightly painted images of Hanuman, Rama’s monkey
general. Among its treasures is a bell salvaged from a Dutch ship that was
wrecked on the beach in the eighteenth century – the ship’s captain donated it
in a gesture of thanksgiving after his entire crew escaped with their lives.
North of Varkala
Just north of Varkala the shoreline grows a lot less
densely populated, though the large, gaudily painted houses dotted around its
hinterland of leafy lanes bear witness to the considerable affluence flooding
in with remittance cheques from the Gulf states. You can comfortably walk the
kilometre or so from the north end of Varkala cliff as it descends to Odayam, a mixed Hindu and Muslim village where a cluster of resorts and
modest guesthouses has sprung up around the small black-sand beach.
Room rates are on the high side,
but it can be well worth paying for the extra seclusion when Varaka’s clifftop
area is firing on all cylinders. Around 7 km north is Kappil Beach, a scenic spot where the sea meets the backwaters. A narrow road
separates the pretty stretch of sand from Edava- Nadayara Lake, where Priyadarshini Boat Club has rowing boats and pedalos to
rent.
2. Golconda Fort, Hyderabad
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| Golconda Fort, Hyderabad |
One of the most impressive forts
in India – a winding series of battlements with a vividly decorated Hindu
temple on top.
Golconda Fort
Hyderabad, was the capital of the seven Qutb
Shahi kings from 1518 until the end of the sixteenth century, when the court
moved to Hyderabad itself. Well preserved and set in thick green scrubland, it
is one of India’s most impressive forts, boasting 87 semicircular bastions and
eight mighty gates, complete with gruesome elephant-proof spikes. Set aside a
day to explore the fort, which covers an area of around four square kilometres.
Entering the fort by the Bala Hisar
Gate, you come into the Grand Portico, where guards clap their hands to show
off the fort’s acoustics. To the right is the mortuary bath, where the
bodies of deceased nobles were ritually bathed prior to burial. If you follow
the arrowed anticlockwise route, you pass the two-storey residence of ministers
Akkanna and Madanna before starting the stairway ascent to the Durbar Hall.
Halfway along the steps, you arrive at a small, dark cell named after the court
cashier Ramdas, who while incarcerated here produced the clumsy carvings
and paintings that litter the gloomy room.
Nearing the top, you come across the small,
pretty mosque of Ibrahim Qutb Shah; beyond here is an even tinier temple to
Durga. The steps are crowned by the three-storey Durbar Hall of the Qutb
Shahis, on platforms outside which the monarchs would sit and survey their
domains. The ruins of the queen’s palace, once elaborately decorated
with multiple domes, stand in a courtyard centred on an original copper
fountain that used to be filled with rosewater. You can still see traces of a
“necklace” design on one of the arches, at the top of which a lotus bud sits
below an opening flower with a cavity at its centre that once contained a
diamond.
At the entrance to the palace itself,
four chambers provided protection from intruders. Passing through two rooms,
the second of which is overgrown, you come to the Shahi Mahal, the royal
bedroom. Originally it had a domed roof and niches on the walls that once sheltered
candles or oil lamps. Golconda has a nightly sound-and-light show.
3. Hampi
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| Hampi - South India Tourist Places |
The capital of a great Hindu
empire, sacked five centuries ago to leave a site strewn with ruins and medieval
sculptures.
Hampi (Vijayanagar)
Among a surreal landscape of golden-brown
boulders and leafy banana fields, the ruined “City of Victory,” Vijayanagar,
better known as Hampi (the name of the main local village), spills from
the south bank of the River Tungabhadra. This once dazzling Hindu capital was
devastated by a six-month Muslim siege in the second half of the sixteenth
century.
Only stone, brick and stucco structures survived
the ensuing sack – monolithic deities, crumbling houses and abandoned temples
dominated by towering gopuras – as well as the irrigation system that channelled
water to huge tanks and temples, some of which are still in use today.
Thus, Hampi’s monuments appear a lot older
than their four or five hundred years. With its wooden superstructure burnt and
past buried in ruins, excavations by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI)
can only piece together the fragmented history of this sophisticated city.
Grappling with years of encroachment and the
constant tussle between preservation and modernization, the Hampi World
Heritage Area Management Authority (HWHAMA) has controversially pressed ahead
with plans to revamp Hampi Bazaar and the adjoining “heritage zone”.
Yet, at least for the time being, the serene riverside setting and air of magic
that still lingers over the site, sacred for centuries before a city was
founded here, make it one of India’s most extraordinary locations.
Many find it difficult to leave and spend
weeks chilling out in cafés, wandering to whitewashed hilltop temples and
gazing at the spectacular sunsets. Although spread over 26 square kilometres,
the ruins of Vijayanagar are mostly concentrated in two distinct groups:
the designated Sacred Centre around Hampi Bazaar and the nearby
riverside area, encompassing an enclave of temples and ghats; and the Royal
Enclosure – 3 km south of the river, just northwest of Kamalapura village
– which holds the remains of palaces, pavilions, elephant stables, guardhouses
and temples. Between the two stretches is a long boulder-choked hill and scores
of banana plantations, fed by ancient irrigation canals.
4. Fort Cochin
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| Fort Cochin - Chinese Fishing Nets |
This atmospheric harbourside is
strung with elegant Chinese fishing nets, now emblematic of Kerala.
Fort Cochin, the grid of old streets at the northwest tip of the peninsula,
is where the Portuguese erected their first walled citadel, Fort Immanuel,
which the Dutch East India Company later consolidated with a circle of
well-fortified ramparts. Only a few fragments of the former battlements remain
(the outline of the old walls is traced by the district’s giant rain trees,
some of which are more than two centuries old), but dozens of other evocative
European-era monuments survive.
A good way to get to grips with
Fort Cochin’s many-layered history is to pick up the free walking-tour maps produced by Kerala Tourism and the
privately run Tourist Desk. They lead you around some of the district’s more
significant landmarks, including the early eighteenth-century Dutch Cemetery,
Vasco da Gama’s supposed house and several traders’ residences.
Walking around the old quarter
you’ll come across several small exhibition spaces and galleries – evidence of Fort Cochin’s newfound status as one of India’s
contemporary art hubs. The scene takes centre stage between mid-December and
March when the Kochi Muziris Biennale draws artists and
collectors from across the country with its mix of film, art, performance art
and new media hosted by half a dozen different venues.
Chinese Fishing Nets
Timing: Daily 6.30am to 11am &
5pm to 7pm
Probably the single most familiar
photographic image of Kerala, the huge, elegant Chinese fishing nets lining the northern shore of Fort
Cochin add grace to the waterfront view. Traders from the court of Kublai Khan
are said to have introduced them to the Malabar region. Known in Malayalam as cheena vala, they can also be seen throughout the backwaters further south.
The nets, which are suspended from poles and operated by levers and weights,
require at least four men to control them. If you linger, the fishermen will
beckon you over to help (for a small tip).
Church of St Francis
South of the Chinese fishing nets
on Church Road (the continuation of River Road) is the large, typically English
Parade Ground. Overlooking it, the Church of St Francis was the first built by Europeans
in India. Its exact age is not known, though the stone structure is thought to
date back to the early sixteenth century. The facade, meanwhile, became the model
for most Christian churches in India. Vasco da Gama was buried here in 1524,
but his body was later removed to Portugal. Under the Dutch, the church was
renovated and became Protestant in 1663, then Anglican with the advent of the
British in 1795. Inside, the earliest of various tombstone inscriptions placed
in the walls dates from 1562.
Mattancherry
Mattancherry, the old district of red-tiled riverfront wharves and houses occupying
the northeastern tip of the headland, was once the colonial capital’s main
market area – the epicentre of the Malabar’s spice trade, and home to its wealthiest
Jewish and Jain merchants. Like Fort Cochin, its once grand buildings have
lapsed into advanced states of disrepair, with most of their original owners working
overseas. When Mattancherry’s Jews emigrated en masse to Israel in the 1940s,
their furniture and other unportable heirlooms ended up in the antique shops for which the area is now renowned – though these days genuine pieces
are few and far between.
Mattancherry Palace
The sight at the top of most
itineraries is Mattancherry Palace, on the roadside a short
walk from the Mattancherry Jetty, 1km or so southeast of Fort Cochin. Known
locally as the Dutch Palace, the two-storey building was actually erected by
the Portuguese, as a gift to the raja of Cochin, Vira Keralavarma (1537–61) – though
the Dutch did add to the complex. While its squat exterior is not particularly
striking, the interior is captivating, with some of the finest examples of
Kerala’s underrated school of mural
painting,
along with Dutch maps of old Cochin, coronation robes belonging to past
maharajas, royal palanquins, weapons and furniture.
Paradesi Synagogue
The neighbourhood immediately
behind and to the south of Mattancherry Palace is known as Jew Town, home of a vestigial Jewish community whose place of worship is
the Pardesi (White Jew) Synagogue. Founded in 1568 and
rebuilt in 1664, the building is best known for its interior, an incongruous
hotchpotch paved with hand-painted eighteenth-century blue-and-white tiles from
Canton.
An elaborately carved Ark houses
four scrolls of the Torah, on which sit gold crowns presented by the maharajas
of Travancore and Cochin, testifying to good relations with the Jewish
community. The synagogue’s oldest artefact is a fourth-century copperplate
inscription from the raja of Cochin.
Kathakali in Kochi - Travel Map Fly Bytes
Kochi is the only city in Kerala
where you are guaranteed the chance to see live kathakali, the state’s unique form of ritualized theatre. Whether in its authentic
setting, in temple festivals held in winter, or at the shorter tourist oriented shows
that take place year-round, these mesmerizing dance dramas – depicting the
struggles of gods and demons – are an unmissable feature of Kochi’s cultural
life.
Four venues in the city currently
hold daily shows, each preceded by an introductory
talk at
around 6.30pm. You can watch the dancers being made up if you arrive an hour or
so beforehand; keen photographers should turn up well before the start to
ensure a front-row seat. Tickets (usually around ₹250) can be bought at the door. Most visitors only attend one
performance, but you’ll gain a much better sense of what kathakali is all about if you take in at least a couple. The next step is an all-night recital at a temple festival. Greenix Village Opposite Fort House.
You’ve a choice between a short kathakali recital (₹350) or longer “kaleidoscope”
culture show (₹650) combining excerpts from kathakali plays with displays of mohiniyattam
dance, kalaripayattu martial art and, on Sun, theyyam, set against a combination of live and prerecorded music. Performances
aren’t of the highest standard, but costumes and acts change in quick
succession and the make-up is particularly stunning. Note that it costs ₹50 extra to take photos.
Kerala Folklore Museum
Theyvara, near Kundannoor Bridge, southeastern edge
of Ernakulam.
The most atmospheric
venue – an a/c theatre decorated with wonderful Keralan murals and traditional wooden architecture – though it’s a long
trek across town if you’re staying in Fort
Cochin and sadly you have to book the entire theatre for an exclusive (and eye-wateringly expensive) show. Most
visitors tour the museum downstairs and just
take a peek at the theatre.
Kerala Kathakali Centre
Bernard Master Lane, near Santa Cruz Basilica,
just off KB Jacob Rd, Fort Cochin.
Popular performances in a
dedicated a/c theatre from a company of graduates of the renowned Kalamandalam
academy. You usually get to see three characters, and the music is live. Shows
(₹300) 6–7.30pm (make-up 5pm), plus classical music recitals at 8pm
every night except Sat (₹250) and kalaripayattu martial art daily at 4pm (₹250).
5. Gokarna
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Gokarna - South India Tourist Places
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A less commercialized slice of
beachside bliss, just a couple of hours or so south of Goa’s crowded resorts.
Gokarna
Among India’s most scenically situated sacred
sites, Gokarna lies between a broad white-sand beach and the
verdant foothills of the Western Ghats, 230 km north of Mangalore. Yet this
compact little coastal town – a Shaivite centre for more than two millennia –
remained largely “undiscovered” by Western tourists until the early 1990s, when
it began to attract dreadlocked and didgeridoo-toting neo-hippies fleeing the
commercialization of Goa, just over 60 km north.
Now it’s firmly on the tourist map, although
the town retains a charming local character, as the Hindu pilgrims pouring
through still far outnumber the foreigners who flock here in winter. A
hotchpotch of wood-fronted houses and red terracotta roofs, Gokarna is clustered
around a long L-shaped bazaar. Its broad main road – known as Car Street – runs west to the town beach, which
is a sacred site in its own right.
Hindu mythology identifies it as the place
where Shiva was reborn from the underworld after a period of penance through
the ear of a cow, or gokarna, thus giving the town its name. Gokarna
is also the home of one of India’s most powerful shiva lingas – the atmalinga, which took root here having being
carried off by Ravana, the evil king of Lanka, from Shiva’s home on Mount Kailash.
It is said Ravana’s brute force distorted the shivalingam
to resemble the
shape of a cow’s ear – another theory behind the town’s name.
The temples
The atmalinga (or pranalinga) is enshrined in the medieval Shri
Mahabaleshwar temple,
at the far west end of the bazaar. It is regarded as so
auspicious that a
mere glimpse of it will absolve a hundred sins, even the murder of a brahmin. Pilgrims shave their heads, fast
and take a ritual dip in the sea before darshan. For this reason, the tour of Gokarna
traditionally begins at the beach, followed by a puja at the Shri
Mahaganpati temple,
a stone’s throw east of the Mahabaleshwar shrine, to propitiate the
elephant-headed god Ganesh.
Foreign tourists are not allowed into the
inner sancta of the main two temples but the parts you can visit are still extremely
atmospheric. One interesting holy place you can get right into is Bhandikeri
Math, a short way
east of the bathing tank. This three-hundred-year-old temple and learning
centre has shrines to the deities Bhavani Shankar, Uma Maheshwari and Maruthi.
The beaches
While Gokarna’s numerous temples, shrines and
tanks are the big draw for Indian pilgrims, most Western tourists head for the
beautiful beaches to the south of the more crowded town beach.
Beyond the lumpy, reddish coloured headland that overlooks the town, lie a series
of sandy strips connected by short seaside walks and motley shacks offering
varied cuisine.
To pick up the trail, take a left off Car
Street beside the Shri Mahaganpati temple and follow the cemented path for
twenty minutes uphill and across a rocky plateau to Kudle
Beach. This wonderful
1km-long sweep of golden-white sand sheltered by a pair of steep-sided
promontories is now punctuated by dozens of restaurant-cum-hut ventures. This
is the longest and broadest of Gokarna’s beaches, with decent surf too, though
the water can be dangerous.
It takes around twenty minutes more to hike
over the headland from Kudle to exquisite Om Beach, so named because its distinctive
twin crescent-shaped bays resemble the auspicious Om symbol. Apart from the
luxury resort set well back from the beach, largely flimsy huts and the odd
hammock still populate the palm groves, usually belonging to restaurants. Large
groups of male travellers tend to descend on the beach at weekends – female sunbathers
may prefer to press on further south.
Gokarna’s two most remote beaches lie another
thirty-minute walk over the rocky hills. Half Moon and Paradise beaches are mainly for intrepid
sun-lovers happy to pack in their own supplies. If you’re looking for
near-total isolation – a sense of Goa perhaps thirty years ago – these are your
best bet.
6. Puducherry
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| Pondicherry - South India |
India with a distinctly French
accent, whether in its architecture or delicious food.
Puducherry
First impressions of Puducherry (Pondicherry, also often referred to simply
as Pondy), the former capital of French India, can be unpromising. Instead of
the leafy boulevards and pétanque pitches you might expect,
its messy outer suburbs and bus stand are as cluttered and chaotic as any
typical Tamil town. Closer to the seafront, however, the atmosphere grows
tangibly more Gallic, as the bazaars give way to rows of houses whose shuttered
windows and colour washed facades wouldn’t look out of place in Montpellier.
For anyone familiar with the
British colonial imprint, the town can induce culture shock with its richly
ornamented Catholic churches, French road names and policemen in De
Gaulle-style képis, and boules played in the dusty squares. Many of the seafront buildings were
damaged by the 2004 tsunami, but Puducherry’s tourist infrastructure remained
intact.
Conclusion
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understand this guide for the Best Tourist Places in South India to visit in 2020. Incase of
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